A surveyor's odyssey across mountains, meaning and melting world
Author: Mrityu Abhas
Category: Travel
August 2, 2025
Everest, Nepal
Few works in Himalayan literature echo as deeply with soul-searching honesty and grounded heroism as Pandhraun Chuli (The Fifteenth Peak) by Khimlal Gautam.
Few works in Himalayan literature echo as deeply with soul-searching honesty and grounded heroism as Pandhraun Chuli (The Fifteenth Peak) by Khimlal Gautam.
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The book was published by Fineprint in 2021 in Nepali. Its narrative transcends its mountaineering premise to deliver a profound meditation on life, duty, nationhood, love, and the urgency of climate change. The book is part memoir, part poetic reflection and part spiritual-philosophical inquiry - not as an outsider gazing up in awe, but as a surveyor, a seeker, and a son of the soil standing tall on the summit, notebook in one hand, and soul in the other.
When contextualised alongside canonical Himalayan travelogues like Jon Krakauer's Into Thin Air, Maurice Herzog's Annapurna, or Tenzing Norgay's reflections with Edmund Hillary, Gautam's work charts a new route. It is a deeply Nepali narrative told by someone who ascends not only for conquest or commerce, but for cartography, for the pride of measurement, and for the poetic pilgrimage of becoming.
It joins mountain literature that does not merely climb - it contemplates.
FROM SURVEYING EARTH TO MEASURING SELF
The premise of Pandhraun Chuli begins with Gautam's literal and metaphorical ascent: from a barefoot child in the lap of Machhapuchchhre to the youngest civil servant and surveyor ever to scale Mount Everest. The title 'Fifteenth Peak' is not only a nod to the physical height of Everest, but a layered metaphor - the fifteenth of many personal mountains scaled: dreams, doubts, disappointments, discovery, and destiny.
Gautam's recounting is not linear; it flows like the Mountain Rivers he swam in his youth. Chapters blend memory, geography, and introspection, moving seamlessly from the schoolyard to the South Col, from collecting survey fees in his village to calibrating GPS devices on Everest. What is striking, and literary, is that the book is as much about inner elevation as it is about geographic ones.
His prose - humble, grounded, and precise - reflects his training as a surveyor. He measures not just metres, but meaning. He tells us that climbing Everest was never his childhood dream; dreams came late, but they came layered with integrity. "An aimless wanderer often outperforms those in pursuit of their set dreams," he reflects - a deeply philosophical twist to the modern ambition narrative.
PHILOSOPHY ON ICE: A HIMALAYAN STOICISM
Gautam offers rich philosophical insight that elevates the book beyond the genre of travel writing or memoir. Whether discussing the geometry of land disputes or the metaphysics of mountains, he practises a form of grounded stoicism. There's no grandstanding, no self-congratulation. When he narrates the potentially fatal incident of frostbite-induced blindness on the summit, it is with restraint and acceptance.
He explores the ephemeral nature of human achievement, noting how even on the summit, one cannot stay long. "While any person can reach, no one can stay." This transient triumph mirrors life's victories - brief, brilliant, but always passing.
One of the most poetic moments comes as Gautam personifies Machhapuchchhre - not merely as a mountain, but as a guardian spirit, a mentor, a witness to his childhood quarrels, dreams, and awakenings. "You are not just tall; you are alone. You don't stand in a range. You stand with self-respect."
In that lyrical apostrophe, he touches the spiritual core of Himalayan belief systems - where mountains are not just rocks, but deities.
SPIRITUALISM AND THE SILENCE OF SNOW
Gautam's spirituality is quiet, non-dogmatic, and deeply rooted in the land. His is a faith found in rivers, stones, and snowfall. While he references Hindu mythology - including Matsya Purana and Lord Vishnu's saving of humankind through Everest - these moments are reflective rather than doctrinal. He is not preaching; he is perceiving.
The mountains become a metaphor for everything - constancy, silence, wisdom, and transience. "Melting mountains taught me to melt," he writes. "Yet even as they melt, their height remains."
This duality becomes a powerful spiritual symbol: flexibility and fortitude, surrender and strength.
Moreover, the cultural rituals of Sherpas, the communal pujas at basecamp, and the symbolism of the yellow rock band as the "forehead line of Lord Shiva" all point to the deeply sacred dimension of mountaineering in Nepal. This is not just a sport or spectacle; it is pilgrimage - and for Gautam, the GPS measurement becomes his offering.
CLIMBING AMID COLLAPSE: THE CLIMATE CRISIS ON THE SLOPES
What sharply distinguishes Pandhraun Chuli from most Himalayan narratives is its clear and urgent reckoning with the climate crisis. Gautam is not merely a climber or chronicler; he is a witness to the warming world - observing disappearing glaciers, growing garbage piles, and snowfall patterns disrupted by atmospheric shifts.
At Everest Base Camp, he laments: "Nature has made the mountains the cleanest and the snow the whitest. People have littered in such places too." The sight of plastic waste, oxygen cylinders, and discarded jackets paints a stark picture of the environmental cost of adventure tourism.
Gautam connects this destruction to larger political symbolism. He reminds us of the 2009 climate cabinet meeting at Kalapathar, where the Nepali government symbolically held a ministerial meeting to draw global attention. He recalibrates its height using GPS - showing not just a commitment to scientific truth, but to the ethical responsibility of data integrity. In that act, we glimpse the soul of a civil servant whose ethics scale alongside his mountains.
LOVE, LOSS, AND THE SURVEYOR'S HEART
Another captivating thread in Pandhraun Chuli is the story of Gautam's personal life - specifically, the blossoming of love with Hema, a colleague he meets through work. Their story is delicately told, with gentle glances, shared scooter rides, and quiet realisations. It humanises the mountain man, reminding us that behind the summit photos and medals, there beats a vulnerable heart shaped by loss, duty, and longing.
NEW CANON IN MOUNTAIN LITERATURE
In this way, Pandhraun Chuli complements and contrasts with works like Reinhold Messner's The Crystal Horizon, Jamling Tenzing Norgay's Touching My Father's Soul, and Ed Douglas's Himalaya. But it is more akin to Nepali voices like Lhakpa Sonam Sherpa and Nima Doma, who see climbing not as conquest, but communion.
Moreover, it sets a precedent: that the stories of Everest must not only be written by those who scale it, but by those who belong to it.
CONCLUSION: MAPPING THE SOUL OF A NATION
Pandhraun Chuli is not just a book about climbing Everest; it is a quiet manifesto of becoming - a cartography of courage, clarity, and commitment. Through Gautam's honest pen, we are reminded that the highest peaks are not only on maps, but in minds and hearts. That greatness comes not from claiming the summit, but from understanding what it means - politically, philosophically, spiritually, and ecologically.
At a time when climate change threatens the very glaciers he stood upon, and when global geopolitics views the Himalayas through the lens of resources and rivalry, Gautam's narrative is both a caution and a call. It is a reminder that the mountain belongs to no one - yet demands responsibility from all.
Above all, Pandhraun Chuli urges us to look inward, teaching us in a summit-obsessed world to measure ourselves not in metres but in meaning-while its narrative power and perspective call urgently for translation into global languages spoken by those who journey to this pristine land in search of adventure.
The author can be reached at alwaysmitra@gmail.com
Weather Update: Favorable climbing conditions
Peak Altitude: 8848 m
Risk Level: High
Expedition Info: Mountain climbing expedition
Mountaineering
Himalayas
Nepal
Adventure Sports
Everest
Annapurna
Climbing
Summit
Base Camp
Ascent