The air thinned as the team pushed higher on Everest's icy slopes. Winds howled, snow swirled, and exhaustion pressed heavy on every step. At the front, guiding his climbers with quiet assurance, was Jyamchang Bhote. For him, this was more than a climb-it was another chapter in a lifelong journey shaped by the mountains. At 44, Jyamchang carries the calm confidence of someone who has spent his entire life on the heights. Born on April 13, 1981, in the remote village of Farang of Bhotkhola-3 (previously Hatiya-1), Sankhuwasabha, he grew up in the shadow of the Himalayas-a landscape that became not only his home but also his calling. Djokovic improves to 19-0 in the first round of the US Open, wins his first match since Wimbledon Slimmed-down Bayern Munich still the team to beat as new Bundesliga season begins Over nearly three decades, Jyamchang has carved out a career that spans Everest summits, high-altitude rescues, international expeditions, and years of instruction that have inspired a new generation of climbers. Today, he stands among Nepal's few International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (IFMGA)-certified guides, with a résumé that stretches from the Khumbu to Antarctica. "I have been guiding in the mountains since 1999," Jyamchang reflects. "The mountains have been both my workplace and my classroom. Every climb, every expedition teaches you something new. My satisfaction comes from the success and safety of my clients." After completing his higher secondary education, Jyamchang committed himself to professional mountain guiding. His journey began with a Trekking Guide Course in 2003, followed by basic and advanced mountaineering training with the Nepal Mountaineering Association. He went on to refine his skills internationally-in France, the UK, Norway, and New Zealand-before achieving the rare distinction of full IFMGA/IVBV/UIAGM certification in 2009. He continued to broaden his expertise with specialized training in avalanche safety, rescue operations, and ski mountaineering, culminating in advanced ski training in Chamonix in 2024. For him, these credentials were never about prestige but about responsibility. "A guide is not just someone who leads," he explains. "A guide is entrusted with lives and dreams. That responsibility demands constant learning." Summits and Expeditions Jyamchang's climbing record reads like a catalogue of Himalayan giants and beyond. His first major ascents included Island Peak in 2000 and Mera Peak in 2001. By 2003, he had already reached the summits of Cho Oyu (8,201m) and Shishapangma (8,013m) in Tibet. In 2004, he stood atop Everest from the North side, marking the start of a series of successful expeditions to the world's highest peak. Since then, he has summited Everest multiple times-in 2004, 2007, 2009, 2010, 2011, twice in 2012 with the Indian Army, in 2021, and most recently in 2025 with the British Army team. His achievements also include Ama Dablam, Manaslu, Himlung, Baruntse, and Antarctica's Mt. Vinson (4,892m), which he has guided regularly since 2019. In 2022, he added North America's Denali to his record. Not every expedition reached the summit-injuries, weather, and unforeseen circumstances sometimes forced retreats. Yet for Jyamchang, success is defined differently: "The summit is never the only goal. True success is returning safely with your team." Alongside his expeditions, Jyamchang has dedicated himself to teaching. As a senior instructor with both the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) and Nepal Mountaineering Instructor Association (NMIA), he has led courses that range from basic rock climbing for schoolchildren to advanced training for professional guides. His expertise has also made him a crucial figure in rescue operations. He has undergone advanced helicopter rescue training with Simrik Air and Air Zermatt, participated in recoveries from the South Col of Everest, and executed long-line rescues-including an evacuation from Camp II on Everest to Kathmandu by Fishtail Air. His search-and-rescue missions have taken him to Taplejung, Paldor, and Ganesh Himal. "In rescue, every minute counts," he says. "The mountains test not only our skills but also our humanity." Global Guiding Experience Since 2008, Jyamchang has spent his summers working in Norway's Jostedalen region with Jostedalen Breforarlag AS, guiding on glaciers and alpine terrain. From 2019 onward, he extended his guiding career to Antarctica, working with Antarctic Logistics & Expeditions (ALE) and New Zealand in 2017/2018 with Adventure Consultants. These experiences, he believes, have given him a broader perspective: "Mountains are universal. Whether in Nepal, Norway, or Antarctica, they connect people. As a guide, I see myself as a bridge between cultures." Leadership and Recognition Jyamchang's contributions extend beyond expeditions and instruction. He has served as Vice President of the Himalaya Bhote Society, Treasurer of the Sankhuwasabha Everest Climbers Association Nepal (SECAN), and board member of the Nepal Mountaineering Instructors Association (NMIA). He is also a life member of the US Nepal Climbers Association and has previously served on the executive board of the Nepal National Mountain Guide Association (NNMGA). In addition, he is a general member of the NMA and an associate member of the Everest Summiteers Association. His efforts have earned him numerous awards and recognitions from the Government of Nepal, the NMA, and international organizations including the Alpine Association of Slovenia. He has judged national climbing competitions and continues to mentor young mountaineers. Now based in Budhanilkantha, Kathmandu, with his wife and family, Jyamchang leads expeditions through his company, High Himalayan Climbing and Expeditions Pvt. Ltd. Nearly three decades after his first climb, his passion for the mountains remains as strong as ever. Asked what keeps him motivated after so many summits, he smiles: "The mountains never get old. Every climb is different, every team is unique. For me, guiding is not just a profession-it's a lifelong journey."